Starting the engine

I have experienced bothersome difficulty starting my 2008 SW when off center stand and side stand up straddled ready to ride. I have to roll it around a bit pulling in "HARD" on the left brake handle several time before it finally starts. Is there any way to disengage the safety associated with this requirement??

The Silverwing seems to take a little more pull on the brake handle than most scooters. if you think the switch is going bad it wouldn't hurt to order a new one. Even if you find out you didn't need a new one and it turns out you weren't pulling hard enuf it wouldn't hurt to have spare.

I learned that if you don't pull hard on the left brake you can't start the bike. I've adjusted my technique accordingly. I think it is great feature because you really have to be paying attention to what you are doing. In an automatic motorcycle it is good to be reminded that things go south in a hurry.

Pull in in the rear brake lever and listen for two clicks, the first click is the switch for the brake light closing and the second is for the starter limit switch. If you don't hear the second click the starting circuit is not closing thru the limit switch.
Look at the brake lever from the bottom and you will see a tang on the lever near the pivot bolt that closes the two switches (they pop out to close). If it doesn't click spray some LPS-1 or WD-40 in to the innermost switch while holding the brake lever in and then pump the lever until the switch is free.
Hopefully this will fix your problem if it's the limit switch.

oltxredneck, how long have you had your Silverwing? Is this a new problem or has it always been hard for you to start? You say you "have to roll it around a bit pulling in "HARD" on the left brake handle". You should not be able to roll it around if you are pulling the brake handle. I know you told us your problem and what you want, but no one has answered your question on disengaging the safety switch. The reason no one has commented on disengaging the safety switch is we would rather help fix the problem than disable something that should have. It may help if you could give us a little more information. The reason I suggested buying a new switch is I assumed that this was new problem. Even if the switch was not bad in the end a part that can be had for $13.25 would not be a bad thing to have for a spare. After all the bike will not start normally without that switch.

I read the various posts regarding starting issues , battery fully charged , put a meter on both sets of rear brake switch contact as well as the kick stand switch . Found no issues . I did however discover the kill switch was the hold up , after cycling the switch and cleaning it out with contact cleaner the switch made contact closure. I also noticed that when the switch ( engine kill) is stuck open the F1 dash light will not come on (illuminate) when the brake safety or side stand switch is suspect , the F1 dash light will still be illuminated .
Thanks for the info , I hope this reply helps others.  

F1 dash light? There isn't one, but there is a FI light... FI = Fuel Injection.

Nice Intro post too.