My first oil change

I know, I know, pretty straight forward, right? I was all prepared too: 3 quarts of oil, and oil filter from Honda, and an oil filter socket from Harbor Freight. Some people here reported a problem with over-tightened oil drain plug, I had no problem with it. What I did have a 2-hours problem with was to un-screw the oil filter. Obviously, I did not want to buy Honda oil filter socket. The socket set from Harbor Freight had 65/68mm socket which is what I needed. Guess what, it didn't work, too big, it would not catch the filter. After messing around with it for a while and removing amost oll of the paint from the filter I went and bought 2 more sockets from Autozone, one called "F" (supposedly 65mm), and another universal, self-tightening one. Still, no luck, seme results. Finally, I called another friend and he had a socket marked "B". Must be for "BINGO" since it worked like a dream. The rest of the procedure was of course easy. I guess I just wanted to share my experience here. Oh, one more thing, oil from the plug does splash around a little, so be prepared to catch it all. Thanks. Miro.

Miro... I changed my oil for the first time about 10 months ago. I had no problem with the oil drain plug but when I changed the filter, it was so tight and the wrench I had was so big... I broke a fitting that connected the water pump to one of the hoses. Was doing the change to get ready for a weekend trip. I had only 2 days to fix the problem but couldn't get the part for 3 days. I had to get the JB Weld out and fixed it. I ordered a new part to use when I got back from the trip. It is still on the scoot and I have the new one in supply. I always just hand tighten the filter and then grip it firmly by hand and hand tighten it just a little more. Simple can become a buggar if you break something. I can relate to your problem getting the filter off. It should be easier next time.
Gary

On both the Swings I have owned, 03 & 07, getting the filter off was a major problem. Honda must put them on with a jackhammer. I would up having to drive a long screwdriver thru the filter to get enough grip. None of my filter wrenches would do the job. I have been changing oil in vehicles for over 50 years, and I always just hand tighten them, and never had a leak yet.

Hi All,

Gary and Wendell, your absolutely right on about hand tight. I just coat the filter seal with a little fresh oil and spin it on until the seal comes in contact with the motor and then hand tighten it 3/4 of a turn, no more. Seals up just fine with no leaks.

DennisB

Just like I said, having the right socket made all the difference.
thomphoto: pushing a screwdriver thru the filter to remove it is what we used to do in the old country. Who would have known that I can't find the right tool here where any possible tool is available. Thanks.

Just curious, coming up on my first oil change,, planning to use Mobil 1 Syn,,
has anyone heard of problems from this kind of oil?

Thanks,,

I just went with Honda oil. There has been numerous discussions here and other forums in regards to oil and oil filter. According to the manual, 10W30 or 10W40 could be used; API service classification SG or higher. Other than that it is up to your personal preference. Lotsa people like to use syntetic oil or blends but I don't but it is just me. I once read in one of the car magazines I subscribe for that one "veteran" editor opinioned that he might not see the value of using syntetic oil vs. to regular one in his lifetime. Once again, this is just my opinion. Of course, considering price of $6 per quart of oil, you might want to look elsewhere. Oh, by the way, changing oil on my Acura MDX costs me $18 (including parts and labor) at my local Honda dealer. Thanks.

I had the problem of getting the old filter off with my first change. They must put them on with an impact wrench at the factory. I ended up using a pipe wrench. I was able to just get a little bite on the filter enough to get a little turn on it. I hear ya on the oil filter wrench. Many that seem to fit just end up slipping when you use them on the old filter. Hand tight is right. That's all you need.

Once I found the correct wrench socket (not sure the manufacturer, it just says "B" and "made in USA") I used my friend's fancy digital torque wrench to tight it to specified 26 N.m (20 lbf.ft). Thanks.

Did my first oil change on my SW yesterday. All the same problems with the filter as above. I finally went to an autoparts store and purchased a lock pliers designed to unscrew the filter. It did come off just fine with that.

skiwoods: that what I would do except that lock pliers could not be used to tie an oil filter to the specified torque - you really need a socket. Many just hand-tight oil filter though. Thanks. Miro.

kawibiker wrote:

Just curious, coming up on my first oil change,, planning to use Mobil 1 Syn,,
has anyone heard of problems from this kind of oil?

Thanks,,

For some reason Honda says you should use a motorcycle oil that has no friction modifiers. But we have a dry clutch. I don't know what the friction modifiers could hurt. I suspect that language is just "boiler plate" and nobody at Honda was really paying attention to the guys who wrote the manual. Your Mobil 1 will probably be fine.

I use Amsoil synthetic motorcycle oil. 10w30.

I've used Chevron DELO 400 15W40 for years in all my four cycle engines, cars, trucks and bikes. It's designed for diesel engines which stress oil much more than gas engines so it keeps it's viscosity longer in use. I like to change oil every six months or 4000 miles. The oil can go longer especially if you put a lot of mileage on in a short time. The problem with Honda's recommendation of 8000 miles between changes is that it takes too long to accumulate that much mileage on a bike. The oil eventually becomes contaminated with acids and other nasties which are byproducts of combustion that can attack bearings and other close fitting parts. That's why I don't use synthetic oil, it just doesn't make economic sense if you're going to change it often. Keeping synthetic oil in the engine for long periods of time doesn't flush out the accumulated contaminants soon enough.