TSUBOSS Brake Discs

I want to replace my brake discs but the prices are a little too rich for me at the moment.

I found this:

Does anybody have any experience with TSUBOSS? If something looks too goo to be true, then it usually is....

Here's the website
https://www.e-tsubossbrakes.co.uk/

I got an EBC rear disk from M&P a few months back for £40 - I guess they bought a job lot and needed to shift them!
Worth a try.

Can't say I've heard of TSUBOSS but if you buy them you can be our guinea pig! Make sure you report back to us?

Sometimes I wonder whether I'm one of 'life's' guinea pigs



Well, here's M&P's latest. (I don't think you'll need 'click to enlarge' this image)!

Both discs for under £100. Could it be true?    

It's a known make from a known supplier so you've got some comeback if there is anything amiss - a better bet than something generic from God knows where in ebayland.

Thanks for the encouragement steve_h80. At those prices I might fit new pads as well, even though my existing ones are not very old. New discs and new pads. Very reassuring

Re using pads , Not a good idea . For my safety I only use OEM , Or EBC brake parts .. My life depends on it ...

bweighmaster wrote:

Re using pads ,   Not a good idea .     For my safety I only use  OEM  , Or  EBC  brake parts ..  My life depends on it ...

I don't see a problem refitting part worn brake pads after cleaning or maintenance. You may not be aware that we Brits have to take any motorcycle or maxi scooter we ride that's over 3 years old in for an annual road worthiness inspection. The vehicle inspector checks how effective the brakes are, and if they're rubbish you fail, have to fix the problem and resubmit the bike or scooter again to get the certificate that legally allows it to be on the road for the next 12 months.

Having dodgy brakes is also the perfect get out clause for an insurance company to declare your cover invalid if you're involved in a crash or accident. As for brake pads generally, they're like tyres, lubricants and fuels, everyone has brands they prefer.

Considering the stresses discs endure, it would be quickly recognized if the steel is OEM quality or not. Is there a skilled metallurgist in the house?
I would love to bypass the current suppliers/jobbers whom like so many have enjoyed "guild" like status in providing parts.


This post edited by site Admin. We won’t tolerate political comments on this forum. We don’t do religion, guns or alien abductions either. 


Fair Warning: Another comment such as you’ve posted today will bring the hammer down.

Roadman we're more than happy to have a MOT, it's just a road worthiness test of each and every motor vehicle on the road.
Most of us on this forum are enthusiasts. We're proud of our vehicles and riding skills, we enjoy using our vehicles and would be appalled at the thought of them been in an unsafe condition.
Unfortunately the majority of the population over here see their vehicle almost as a fridge, it's just another domestic appliance to get them about without expending the energy in walking. Left to their own devices they would never spend money or time on maintenance.

Loosemarbles wrote:

Thanks for the encouragement steve_h80. At those prices I might fit new pads as well, even though my existing ones are not very old. New discs and new pads. Very reassuring

It's always worth replacing pads with disks as they tend to wear into each other over the miles, although you'll get away without.
Just out of interest what was up with the original disks? I had to replace my rear disk because it had developed a small crack, but it was pretty much unworn at 28K miles, with scintered pads I might add

Well, errr...getting back to topic, I would agree that discs and pads should be replaced together. If My current ones are OK I might keep them as 'spares'.

I like to think of myself as an 'enthusiast'...I have to be with a 2001 model but I'm definately attached to it.

Both my current discs are both on 5mm limit and a bit scored. They've never been mentioned on the MOTs but when I run my fingers along them they feel rather thin.

All I've gotta do now is to bite the bullet and buy 'em.

Bite the bullet. New rotors and pads.

Improved power and pad life IS questionable though? Better cooling from rotor is the key.
Their Website sucks can't seem to look up fitment on any bike without going through pages of bikes. Maybe it's me?

I did some more reading on discs and pads etc. I've just ordered EBC discs front and rear (round ones) and EBC pads front and rear (standard).

It was certainly worth the debate, I'm a bit wiser, and older. I've got a busy couple of days coming up:

New Dr Pulley Sliders and Sliding Pieces and new Discs and Pads to fit. I've been looking forward to some time in my man-cave.

BTW, should I replace the disc fastening bolts with new ones? Discuss......

Loosemarbles wrote:

BTW, should I replace the disc fastening bolts with new ones? Discuss......

Come on mate, saying discuss means you're winging it, and if you had your own FSM for reference you wouldn’t have to ask.

Anyway I've dug out my FSM and it says:

Brake caliper mounting bolt 30 N.m torque ALOC bolt: replace with a new one.

Apparently an ALOC bolt is one you buy from Honda or elsewhere that comes in a sealed package and has some type locking compound applied to it. Whether  owners or mechanics use them or reuse the old bolts with a smear of locking compound I've no idea.

Maybe ADLOC means Add Loctite Or Crash.

I'll confess I've always reused the old disk bolts. I'll cleaned them of old locking compound, add new compound and then torques them up as per the manual, then recheck the torque setting frequently over the few rides.

Better to use a higher temperature thread lock on disc bolts I clean mine up and use loctite green IIRC

When my local dealer told me I should use new disc bolts (when I replaced my front wheel) I asked him if they were 'stretch bolts'? He said no but do it for safety's sake, and I did.

If they're not stretch bolts then I'll reuse the existing ones after a clean up. I'm going make a thread-cleaner bolt from one of the old ones just to make sure all the old gunk is well out of there, then use new loctite and do periodic torque checks until they're bedded in, so to speak.

I confess Meldrew, I don't have the FSM but I should have one by the end of the month, at last! In any case, the forum is rather quiet so I thought I would bring up some topics for us all consider in contemplation of next year's riding. ( I do ride in the winter, I'm no wuss........ or 'wus' for our american cousins).

Are stretch bolts still used for anything and would you like to see them used more often?...discuss

Loctite is the key sure bolts could get worn after many tire changes. Normal caliper bolts have a bit more thread but if look at parking brake bolts they are short and just clearance rear rotor. Torque everything with a good wrench.

Not stretch bolts just normal bolts used on many different parts. I just use Blue Loctite or Hondabond gasket sealer make a great thread holder only endorsed by ME.

It's Wussy.

Wussy sounds better