Givi brake light kit….

I looked into putting a brake light in my Givi V47 box on the back and they have a kit for it at a reasonable price,the box and Givi box mount have two punch out locations and two tiny adapters in the top and bottom piece where the contacts are located,unfortunately one of the post on the red lens cracked off when I did the install so I needed to purchase a set of replacement lens ,besides that the kit was simple to install you just need a multimeter to trouble shoot things ,all together there are two sets of contacts that you must keep positive to positive and negative to negative or it won’t work,having a raised brake light is a huge improvement on visibility and hopefully will save my butt from being hit from the rear,if anyone has a Givi box and your interested in getting a brake light for it you can find it at here 

https://tourandride.com/


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I see you got hit with "sods law" ref. the lenses john.
always the way, probably because we tend to rush to finish it lol
You can never have enough lights on a bike though.
as I always say....


Be safe, be seen!

Ps. All I've managed to do this week on my Swing was to loose balance and fall over with it in the garden. So I now have about a weeks work repairing the headlight/nose cone tupperware or finding a second hand one, deep joy.
"There's no fool like an old fool" lol.

JohnyC wrote:

I see you got hit with "sods law" ref. the lenses john.
always the way, probably because we tend to rush to finish it lol
You can never have enough lights on a bike though.
as I always say....


Be safe, be seen!

Ps. All I've managed to do this week on my Swing was to loose balance and fall over with it in the garden. So I now have about a weeks work repairing the headlight/nose cone tupperware or finding a second hand one, deep joy.
"There's no fool like an old fool" lol.

Yeah I guess so,it went smoothly until the screw boss that’s attached to the lens broke off when I removed it,I was thinking it was just old ,I’m glad I found new lenses for it I’ll swap them out next week,I had to remove the back and rear side panels just to access the wiring for the brake lights ,that had me more worried than installing the light kit but it went back together without issue,I’m feeling more confident about messing with the Tupperware now.

Bummer about dropping it,at least you wasn’t injured I’d search ebay,my guess is someone thought they’d get more money piecing the bike out instead of selling it whole,there pretty much a whole bike in pieces for sale on eBay, I needed a fender but the fender on eBay was cracked so I was able to order one from someone NOS Honda fender that’s out of stock everywhere I checked ,just in case you can’t find a part check Chaparral Motorsports,,,I’m waiting for the fender to come in before changing out the front springs…

Is this the piece https://www.ebay.com/itm/314467063191?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=96By64x2Tzm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBkDh6OMS1y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Or this https://www.ebay.com/itm/114677903228?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0lpFVkHQTf6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBkDh6OMS1y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Than there’s this with broken clips https://www.ebay.com/itm/115416750583?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0lpFVkHQTf6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBkDh6OMS1y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I’m not sure exactly what part you need but I’ll be glad to help locate them if I can

Ride Safely

Hi John, thank you for the links, being able to source the parts is always half the battle.
Not taken apart yet. need a few drinks first lol.

Be safe, be seen!

I ordered a right lower cover from Chap Moto and called them last night to see if it was shipped. Despite it showing available with a price, it actually isn’t available any longer (not made by Honda) so when I called last night, I was told this and that they will issue a refund, so I guess it’s time to get some aerosol matching paint and sand, prep, and repaint (which is actually more money than if they had the proper part available).

When I recently did my refurb on my 2003, I think I likely got the last front cover in existence (the major part of the fairing) and also got the piece you specified in your parts list- the one right above the headlight (got these as new).

I also installed a Givi rear rack so I can use my Monokey case from the ST to the FSC and I wired the FSC such that the Admore light package I have on the Givi case works as a brake light (and it has a flasher that flashes 4x quickly, 4x more slowly, the steady on)- gotta keep people off your rear! I used a plug in so I can move the case from bike to scooter very rapidly, and have the same plug in on the ST.








Parts get really scarce on an older bike, unfortunately.

I suppose LEDs are the way it's going now. Makes you begin to think about the effectiveness of filament bulbs. Being rear-ended is something I choose not to think about!

As for dropping your SW?.....PITA! At least there are plenty of used parts out there.

Loosemarbles wrote:

I suppose LEDs are the way it's going now. Makes you begin to think about the effectiveness of filament bulbs. Being rear-ended is something I choose not to think about!

As for dropping your SW?.....PITA! At least there are plenty of used parts out there.

This is VERY true…I installed LEDs for my tail lights, headlights, as well as indicators (they have the ability to flash normally without the ‘hyperflash’

JohnyC wrote:

Hi John, thank you for the links, being able to source the parts is always half the battle.
Not taken apart yet. need a few drinks first lol.

Be safe, be seen!

Hi,No problem,just drop me a note and I’d love to help you locate something I’m a little OCD about it,lol


Ride Safely

Erdoc48 wrote:

I ordered a right lower cover from Chap Moto and called them last night to see if it was shipped. Despite it showing available with a price, it actually isn’t available any longer (not made by Honda) so when I called last night, I was told this and that they will issue a refund, so I guess it’s time to get some aerosol matching paint and sand, prep, and repaint (which is actually more money than if they had the proper part available).

When I recently did my refurb on my 2003, I think I likely got the last front cover in existence (the major part of the fairing) and also got the piece you specified in your parts list- the one right above the headlight (got these as new).

I also installed a Givi rear rack so I can use my Monokey case from the ST to the FSC and I wired the FSC such that the Admore light package I have on the Givi case works as a brake light (and it has a flasher that flashes 4x quickly, 4x more slowly, the steady on)- gotta keep people off your rear! I used a plug in so I can move the case from bike to scooter very rapidly, and have the same plug in on the ST.








Parts get really scarce on  ean older bike, unfortunately.

I remember a few days ago in another thread that you were kinda expecting that,I first emailed them about it asking if that model # was grey but they said it was current out of stock and they’ll contact me in a day or so regarding is they could get it,they emailed me and said it’ll be at their shop in two weeks if I wanted it ,and to just order it on their website and I’ll get an email when it ships my way,,I hope they don’t do the same to me as they did you

I’m thinking of doing my turn signal on the same box because I have two red lenses on each side of my case,currently the top two lights and the lower ones that go around the side of the case would make perfect turn signals,I just have to find the one more of those switches,Givi designed their boxes for lights because of the tabs,I wish they included more

https://i.imgur.com/toMk4b4.jpg


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Loosemarbles wrote:

I suppose LEDs are the way it's going now. Makes you begin to think about the effectiveness of filament bulbs. Being rear-ended is something I choose not to think about!

As for dropping your SW?.....PITA! At least there are plenty of used parts out there.

LED’s ar great because it’s such a slight draw on the system with all them bulbs ,a chance to get a little creative with light,eventually I’ll add them to the underside of the bike,I believe any colors good for that except red and blue,cops will mess with you then

I installed these on mine.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354736466139?hash=item5297f0e8db:g:A6sAAOSw0dpkRAc8&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAIdycEWyCdltpSo%2BgF7JVHyDX7Ouu3y3xLZQwUxxfiQG4IUPbGy5RatIncKQx3zRMDr2coAULV0Zv5hI%2Fwn1lSM%2BoGzPIokCuMiAVS1Xm17nMuO42h2jeBgTC9k2Q%2Foj4k7HepWAIR8VXIogh56ucYSVH37oVBvVeGe1I3fyQPMP%2FCFtViJmdyIZk6wHWF1EeX6rhTbIqUo9WRyk4ljeeXoE7KijmYYPzmoBRJaM%2FteL9Xk9Xn2yeZ9Rp10Leab0hBxFBWGCf7BA17%2BJ4qMFhxPHoCkQbeEH6eQV%2FBqmDxQHc%2F%2FvF3%2FcdO7j%2BWXCNmLvYXhC2NHJRg6FM9kRmyvgHk4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-DNirL1YQ

VERY bright and they flash 5 times then stay on.
And up front I have

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155160358896

Also very bright, and as I say...

Be safe, be seen!

JohnyC wrote:

I installed these on mine.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354736466139?hash=item5297f0e8db:g:A6sAAOSw0dpkRAc8&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAIdycEWyCdltpSo%2BgF7JVHyDX7Ouu3y3xLZQwUxxfiQG4IUPbGy5RatIncKQx3zRMDr2coAULV0Zv5hI%2Fwn1lSM%2BoGzPIokCuMiAVS1Xm17nMuO42h2jeBgTC9k2Q%2Foj4k7HepWAIR8VXIogh56ucYSVH37oVBvVeGe1I3fyQPMP%2FCFtViJmdyIZk6wHWF1EeX6rhTbIqUo9WRyk4ljeeXoE7KijmYYPzmoBRJaM%2FteL9Xk9Xn2yeZ9Rp10Leab0hBxFBWGCf7BA17%2BJ4qMFhxPHoCkQbeEH6eQV%2FBqmDxQHc%2F%2FvF3%2FcdO7j%2BWXCNmLvYXhC2NHJRg6FM9kRmyvgHk4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-DNirL1YQ

VERY bright and they flash 5 times then stay on.
And up front I have

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155160358896

Also very bright, and as I say...

Be safe, be seen!

m


Does the headlight kit come with two bulbs ,one low beam and one high ?

I stumbled on this thread( Big-birds comment) that I think says that the stock Honda headlight is 5A x 2 bulbs 10A total but the new LED headlights are only 2Ax2bulbs is 4amp and the extra amps unused go back into the voltage regulator and burn them out ,,,Am I understanding his comment correctly
https://www.silverwing600.com/t6802-led-headlights

Please forgive my translation from what was said in the thread I linked


Ride Safely

Hi John.
The H7 bulb is a single filament bulb/led. The pair are identical.
So High and Low beam are created by the headlight lenses.
In the case of the Swing the top bulb is Low beam the bottom is High beam.
Fitted 5 months ago and used regularly, not blown the regulator yet, which means its doing It's job, unlike the Big-Birds post. Sounds like he had a bad earth on his regulator connections.

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen!

JohnyC wrote:

Hi John.
The H7 bulb is a single filament bulb/led. The pair are identical.
So High and Low beam are created by the headlight lenses.
In the case of the Swing the top bulb is Low beam the bottom is High beam.
Fitted 5 months ago and used regularly, not blown the regulator yet, which means its doing It's job, unlike the Big-Birds post. Sounds like he had a bad earth on his regulator connections.

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen!

Ok great that’s good to know so I’m guessing the high bam just gets more juice

It does sound a little crazy thinking a light bulb change causing electrical problems…

Amazing what you find on criagslist

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/mpo/d/warwick-honda-silverwing/7602648073.html


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Hi John, they both draw the same power.
High beam is brighter because they add it to the Low beam, so twice the wattage.

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen!

JohnyC wrote:

Hi John, they both draw the same power.
High beam is brighter because they add it to the Low beam, so twice the wattage.

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen!

Gotcha,thank you for taking the time to explain things


Ride Safely

Erdoc48 wrote:

I ordered a right lower cover from Chap Moto and called them last night to see if it was shipped. Despite it showing available with a price, it actually isn’t available any longer (not made by Honda) so when I called last night, I was told this and that they will issue a refund, so I guess it’s time to get some aerosol matching paint and sand, prep, and repaint (which is actually more money than if they had the proper part available).

When I recently did my refurb on my 2003, I think I likely got the last front cover in existence (the major part of the fairing) and also got the piece you specified in your parts list- the one right above the headlight (got these as new).

I also installed a Givi rear rack so I can use my Monokey case from the ST to the FSC and I wired the FSC such that the Admore light package I have on the Givi case works as a brake light (and it has a flasher that flashes 4x quickly, 4x more slowly, the steady on)- gotta keep people off your rear! I used a plug in so I can move the case from bike to scooter very rapidly, and have the same plug in on the ST.








Parts get really scarce on an older bike, unfortunately.

Lol,i just received my email from Chapo stating its no longer available and ill get a refund in 48hrs,,it makes no sense to mislead customers only to issue them a refund a couple weeks later

A question I blew the fuse for the dash it was the second one down from the top a 10 amp fuse do you think it’s possible that by me adding the brake light kit on that line that it pushed it over it’s limit and blew,is it possible if it happens again that I just stick a 15 amp fuse in that slot ?

First, never put a higher amp fuse in a blown fuse’s place- you can wind up frying wires that way. I have to assume the top box lights are being run off the rear brake bulb wires, no? When I wired my top box I ran the wires down to the access panel inside the storage box (I drilled a small entry hole for the wires in the plastic ridge just inside the aluminum rear platform the box sits upon. Then I carefully ran the wire in the little plastic separation inside the storage (under the seat) and used the quick taps to connect the box wires to the brake light wires- if they are LEDs and I assume they are, the current draw is so small that there should be no blown fuses, unless the 2 wires crossed and popped the fuse. When I wired mine (yes, the access to the wires isn’t great behind the access panel) it really was straightforward and has been working well to this day. Kind of hard without pics. I’ll see if I can add some

So here’s the explanation of the pics: first one shows my quick connect for the top box since I use it on the ST1100 as well…it’s a 2 wire connect since I have a brake modulator I bought from superbrightleds.com in the past- when riding the lights are off, but when brakes are applied, it rapidly flashes 4x, then slower flash 4x, then steady on while the regular brake lights don’t flash (and act as running lights when not applying the brakes)

Pic 2, shows how I ran the +/- wires from the connector down in the plastics in that slit in the plastics (I could have drilled another hole and put the 2 wires into the wall of the box as well but didn’t think of that when I originally ran the wires.

Pic 3 shows how the wires are connected using a quick tap (never really liked those but there’s so limited working room that it does work well for this project- + is green with yellow stripe and - is green solid wire (the 2 wires attached to the tail light plug)- if you plan to use the LEDs as a running light and then brake light, you just have to connect the 3rd wire (the only other one but I don’t recall its color) so that you will have running lights as well as brake lights on the top box.

This is important: You can’t have both, meaning you can’t have the top box lights flash with a modulator as well as be running lights (you have to choose how you want them connected)- I learned that early in the project- there’s no need for a fused line for the top box lights assuming they are LEDs and they can be connected directly to the brake light.

Here’s the modulator I used (and I wired it inside the box):
https://www.superbrightleds.com/brake-light-strobe-module-brake-light-strobe-module

If you want a pic / video of the inside of the top box as well as a video showing it in operation, PM me with your email and I’ll reply to you (I can’t post the video of the lights in action on the forum here).

Erdoc48 wrote:

So here’s the explanation of the pics: first one shows my quick connect for the top box since I use it on the ST1100 as well…it’s a 2 wire connect since I have a brake modulator I bought from superbrightleds.com in the past- when riding the lights are off, but when brakes are applied, it rapidly flashes 4x, then slower flash 4x, then steady on while the regular brake lights don’t flash (and act as running lights when not applying the brakes)

Pic 2, shows how I ran the +/- wires from the connector down in the plastics in that slit in the plastics (I could have drilled another hole and put the 2 wires into the wall of the box as well but didn’t think of that when I originally ran the wires.

Pic 3 shows how the wires are connected using a quick tap (never really liked those but there’s so limited working room that it does work well for this project- + is green with yellow stripe and - is green solid wire (the 2 wires attached to the tail light plug)- if you plan to use the LEDs as a running light and then brake light, you just have to connect the 3rd wire (the only other one but I don’t recall its color) so that you will have running lights as well as brake lights on the top box.

This is important: You can’t have both, meaning you can’t have the top box lights flash with a modulator as well as be running lights (you have to choose how you want them connected)- I learned that early in the project- there’s no need for a fused line for the top box lights assuming they are LEDs and they can be connected directly to the brake light.

Here’s the modulator I used (and I wired it inside the box):
https://www.superbrightleds.com/brake-light-strobe-module-brake-light-strobe-module

If you want a pic / video of the inside of the top box as well as a video showing it in operation, PM me with your email and I’ll reply to you (I can’t post the video of the lights in action on the forum here).

I tapped in after the plug under the rear Tupperware and yes they’re leds ,I’ll see if it happens again….