head bearings

does anyone know how to check for loose head bearings.ive jacked her of the ground and got hold of the bottom of the fork legs,tried to move them forward and backwards no play but while jacked up the handle bars fall to the left the same side as the caliper and disc?

That sounds about right. The bars will flop to the side and with the caliper being heavier, it makes sense that it would go that way.
There should be no play or rattle but the bars need to turn freely like that

I saw a video of a mechanic showing how to diagnose loose head bearings.

Jack up the front of the bike and let the handlebars drop to each side. If it goes "clunk" and stops, its good. If it goes "clunk", bounces off the stop and then falls back to the stop, its too loose.

CLUNK = good

CLUNK, clunk = too loose

thanks for the advice i will try this tonite and see what the results are.

The video showing the 'bounce' test for head bearings is here:
https://youtu.be/OW-CmACI5xQ

He's a VMax mechanic/specialist, but the rules apply for the S'wing bearings.

When/if you repack your head bearings, be sure NOT to use Moly grease.

-Bill

cheers for that ive just done the bounce test and it bounces back quite abit so guess il be tightening them this weekend.does any one know how much plastic i have to remove to do the job,

I think you'll need to remove everything from the front. =( I don't have the book in front of me right now though.

cheers for all the advice thanks for the bounce test sweendog yes you are right you have to take the front fairing of completley to access the 32mm nut on the stem.my advice for anyone doing the job which can be done with just removing the right hand storage compartment the handle bars.i took the lot of because i didnt have a 32mm deep socket when i mean deep its around 4 ins down the stem,so please go and buy the socket before you start the job makes the job so much easier.my bike handles now so much so i had a good set to with a ktm 690 duke for around 6 miles lets just say he wasnt impressed

L & J - A proper result!

lesley & John wrote:

...can be done with just removing the right hand storage compartment the handle bars.

Thanks for the tip! I removed the pocket to take a peek and found the assembly within reach. Now to do the bounce test and see about a socket.

Mine bounced big and then a small bounce.

Do I take the handle bar head set off for better access useing a 32 mm socket?

I'm referring to vid above.

There's a procedure in the service manual.

I have to disagree with some advice posted here - certainly, if you can move the forks back and forth, you have a problem, but you can also have a problem on this particular bike without the forks seeming to move. The head bearing needs to be tighter than most bikes - it would be too tight on most bikes if tightened as the Silverwing requires.

The steering should NOT flop over when properly tightened to spec. If it easily flops over when the front wheel is lifted, your bearing needs to be tightened. It's going to be awfully hard to tighten it so tight you can't turn the wheel, but it's pretty easy to be too loose on this bike - and that's what notches bearings.

Yep front wheel off ground.Turned to left it flops down and bounces back.If it was properly tightened it wouldn't bounce back.I tried that test because my front shakes back n forth when hands are removed.I tried removing hands going about 25 mph for 1 second.Instant shake.It rides great with hands on.

Jmaslak that's interesting how tight it must be.Thanks

Still asking how someone tightened theres.

If you don't know about wobble
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fvsDIq3WwVA

I don't remember the exact pressure but on the big GW the book called for about 3lbs of pull perpendicular to the fork at the fork legs to get the fork moving, any less and the head bearing torque was too low and any less, too low. Most bikes show some drag on turning the the forks with correct torque. They should have some drag against turning, be smooth and with no notchiness felt while turning. If you can feel looseness in the bearings by rocking the bike forward and back with the front brake solidly on you probably need new bearings

Manual says hook a spring scale to fork.Adjust to 2.9-3.7 lbf.
I'm thinking mine is only tight but without resistance.
Ka poohy. I knew I'd find something to fix.lol

Wow! I didn't think my memory worked at all. Now if I could just remember why I'm in this room.

32mm is 1.26 inch
I just read some one rounded the nut off a bit and recommend 1 1/4 (1.25) inch.
And had to grind the deep well 3/16in to get a better bite on the nut.The socket bottoms out to soon with out grinding deep inside of socket.

I had a problem finding a 12pt socket deep enough for the head stem nut.  I solved it by purchasing two deep sockets, cutting one in half and welding it to the second socket giving me a very deep socket.   Worked like a charm. Purchased on Ebay.

GearWrench 80827 1/2 inch Drive 12 Point Deep Socket 32mm

I used the pin spanner in my tool kit you can finger tighten the nut then I place a fish scale on the fork nut and applied 5 to 7 lbs pressure to turn from centre to left or right side . It's not the pressure recommended in the manual but I get no more head shake and I can live with that.