Bike not charging battery.

Left home and about 1 hour later all my instruments start to go in and out. I figured that when I drive, if the rpm's are over 3500 , my dashboard comes on.
So I drive for another half hour. Every time I stop at the light everything will turn off. Until I came to a stop and the bike went dead. I mean no electricity no lights no nothing...dead.
So I push it about 5 blocks to a mechanic and ask for a jump. Bike came on. It only lasted about 5 minutes until the cluster went dead again.
Again every time I go above 3500 rpms , the lights will come on. What would've been my worst case scenario ? 5 a clock traffic of course. So the bike went out again and I pushed it for another mile to another repair shop and this time I asked for a charger. I waited for about 30 minutes. As soon as I got in my driveway ...the bike went dead. Talking about timing.

To continuity and beyond / to continuity or not:
So I pull out the manual page 18-8 and it said under
Alternator Charging Coil Inspection
"Check continuity between each Yellow wire terminal of the alternator side connector to the ground. There should BE continuity."
Than it goes to say:
"Replace the alternator stator if resistance is out of specification or if any wire has continuity to the ground.

Soooo: there should be continuity but if it is ..I have to replace the alternator ? Which one is what. I am sooo confused.

I checked it like it said in the manual and I do have 0.5 ohm. How in the world am I suppose to check if it puts electricity ?

I hooked it up to a voltmeter and I inserted the probe in to the left and right hole and every time I accelerate the needle will move. But nothing happened when idling. Does that mean that is not generating anything while idle ?

I didn't get to the regulator yet. I am trying to figure out this alternator thing first.

History:
After a couple of horrible experiences with motorcycle batteries I have added a small car battery.

Last year it did the same thing. It will not charge the battery. I took it in and they told me that there were some loose connection and it should be fine. And it was for the whole year.

Than I have added some of the walmart halogen lights. It will go through my battery in a a couple of hours. If I disconnect them the bike was fine. So it's almost like it charging but not enough to support those additional lights.

Last week I changed the battery , thinking that it does not hold the charge....but there is nothing wrong with it.

If I have enough juice in the battery , the bike will work perfect. But than it runs out and with about 30 minutes before dying, it flashes my dashboard. It's kinda weird to drive the bike with no rpms no speed to temperature no nothing.

I checked all the connections. I took it to Autozone. They put it on a gadget to see if it charges and they said that there is no electricity coming in. Than the result said that the regulator is broken. Now, that tool was intended for a car, so I don't know what to believe.

Those people from where I live have no clue about this bike. They are going on a fishing expedition just like me. The only difference is that they get paid with my money to do it.
If you need to take your bike anywhere in Austin or Georgetown TX, be aware they have no idea what they are doing.

Any suggestions highly appreciated.

x

Baaack ordeeeerr? Noooo ...

My battery is standing up. It is the smallest car battery I could find. I will upload pictures tomorrow. I had it "standing up" down in the box and lately I moved it up and anchor it with a a cord. A little weight is good, the wind won't blow me over.

Anybody has a stator for sale ?

This stator/rectifier problem is so confusing.

BATTERY:
New. Charged. No leakage. Clean contacts. With the bike running from idle to 5000rpm voltage = 12.38v - 12.43v. The manual sais 15v. Wow I am so off.

CHARGING COIL/STATOR
I disconnected the 3 yellow wire plug. I get zero ohms BUT I get AC current. From idle to 5000rpm. = 8-25v AC
Here is the crazy thing. The stator gives differen readings when the bike is on. Example: there is no continuity to ground when the bike is running.

REGULATOR/RECTIFIER
It was easier than I thought to take the front off. All the screwed are there in plain view. Anybody can do it.

So, I disconnected the 6p connector to measure the voltage that is coming out of the regulator. From idle to 5000rpm= 5.54v to 18.89v DC.
Now when I connect that plug and measure it, it gives me what the battery will read earlier.

So I get voltage but possibile no amps. I say possibile because I did GE a 0.5 ohms once at the dealeship. I could not get it on my voltmeter.

I ordered the stator. I pray that is not the regulator to.

Any experiences?

Thank you




REGULATOR

lucian wrote:

I ordered the stator. I pray that is not the regulator to.

I had the stator go (under extended warranty) ... they tested the regulator but it was OK. They said normally when the stator is bad, the regulator typically goes next ... but since I caught it so early the regulator was sill good. It sounds the same for you too.

How many volts you have measuring the battery when idle or at 5000 rpm ?
Thank you