DIY Handlebar End Weights

Got some 1-1/4 copper tube fittings and some lead fishing weights and made 18oz bar end weights x 1.9 inch long. They do not stick out much past the end ball on my brake levers - about 1/4 inch. My stock OEM bar end weights weigh 3.3oz. Vibration reduction (guesstimate) for these 18oz bar end weights of 80% (over nothing on bar end) - which makes a small difference in vibration reduction on my 2008 SWing and a huge difference in vibration reduction on my 2003 SWing - as the older SWing vibrates more - especially at 80 to 90mph (indicated). If you use your SWing to go to the grocery store - then don't bother with bar end weights - but if you plan to do 500 mile rides - or otherwise put on a bunch of miles - then bar end weights seem to be a worthwhile investment as one means for reducing vibration to your hand. If you have a spare $75 - then go buy them - if not, then get friendly with your plumber and your fisherman - and make them!

Hi Dimond.
Much more weight = much less vibration at nearly all speeds?
More up close pictures please?
Have you applied for your patent on these yet?
Greg

Honda Silver on this forum has noted that Manic Salamander bar end weights work for him -

http://www.manicsalamander.com/

There is a discussion of this matter on this forum:
https://www.silverwing600.com/t1464-slight-handlebar-vibration-question

There is nothing novel about what I did - other than it was a DIY project; however, unless you are retired or have lots of time on your hands - suggest that you buy them as otherwise you will be spending a half day plus on this project!

They seem to help whenever there is a tendency for the SWing to go into a vibration mode due to harmonics associated with either the SWing (e.g., drive train, engine, wheel rotation) or the road (e.g., pavement setting up a vibration oscillation).

They are not the end-all for vibration elimination - but they do help.

Dimond,
This may be a dumb question, but are the lead weights held loosely in the tubing fitting or did you melt the lead and cast it into the fitting?

SonnyO wrote:

or did you melt the lead and cast it into the fitting?

Guess you could melt the lead and pour it into the fitting; however, in my case (since I had no appropriate container with which to melt/pour the lead) I heated the fittings from the outside with a propane torch, placed the weights inside, and watched as the heat melted the lead like butter on a skillet! Be sure to stay upwind (or wear a proper respirator) as you don't want to be breathing any lead fumes. There were really quite of few steps that I followed in making these bar end weights which I can share if you actually plan on doing this project yourself.

Dimond wrote:

They seem to help whenever there is a tendency for the SWing to go into a vibration mode due to harmonics associated with either the SWing (e.g., drive train, engine, wheel rotation) or the road (e.g., pavement setting up a vibration oscillation).

They are not the end-all for vibration elimination - but they do help.

And I thought it was just helicopters that suffered that phenomena.

If my Wing gets into 'ground resonance' or vibration due to 'harmonic association' I will either shut down the throttle or wonder where the collective lever is!!!!!!

Dimond,
I am interested in the process used to make these bar end weights. Please forward by PM or here as you prefer.

Thanks!

Gents, et. al.,

Well, how about firing up a really old thread but I can't resist.  (Hey, at least I figured out how to search first!)

My throttle sticks a bit, in the hand grip area, towards the low end, nothing serious, but I took the opportunity to ride it "look ma, no hands" (so I could light my smoke) and it would just slowly decelerate.  What I wasn't expecting was that the handlebar would start oscillating; starting out slowly, then increasing to the point of "holy crap" better get a grip!  Not going any faster than 20 - 25 mph or so.

As my motorcycle history starts with an '01 49cc Vino, then an '87 Elite 250, now this '05 Swing, I don't have that much time in the seat as many others here.  I'm sure this is perfectly normal behavior, as a gyroscope "spins down" it becomes less stable, but I've heard and learned here about the gyroscopic, and gyro "counter" forces, and other such scientific stuff things here, so I couldn't resist.

There's no noticeable issue - if I hang on - so the bottom line here would very possibly be to do just that, hang on.

Jon

On a side note, I live 30 mi N of Jax, FL.  Anyone in the area wanna start something?  Riding?  Lunch?  Trips?  etc?

I couldn't find my dirty, rotten, nasty, filthy cigarette smoker emoticon either...

Typically a cupped front tire, loss of front tire balance, loose head bearings are common causes of head shake or oscillation. Most bikes have a resonance point where they will wobble, some not much, some pretty violent. My GT has a slight head shake decelerating with hands off around 25mph. Goldwings are famous for their 35mph deceleration hands off wobble. There used to be some HD models that had a high speed wobble which is a lot more serious since at speed there's a lot more energy in the oscillating part. I've never noticed a wobble or head shake in a Silverwing or my BMW C650Gt if you have a couple of fingers on one of the grips.
Old bikes had more wobble problems. My first bike, a '49 Triumph Thunderbird had a friction adjustment on the fork. When you got up above 35 or 40 it was time to snug down the damper if you didn't want to see the wobble. When slowing down below that you needed to loosen the damper or steering was pretty awkward.

I bought a set of Piaggio handlebar end weights of the net, $ 48.00 for the pair. they weight 500 grams ( 17oz) each and do a great job in protecting the brake lever if you ever drop your SW. I am convinced that they help cutting down vibrations.